Hello Friends,

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As some of you know, I recently came back from Croatia. It was the first time my husband and I have taken a solo trip together since our honeymoon 24 years ago. With the kids now off to college, it seemed like an epic, two-week road trip would be the perfect opportunity to regroup and reconnect. Risky, you say? Most definitely. But we survived after learning one very important lesson: we need to go through airport security in two separate lines. That way, I can stay hydrated until the very last second, while also avoiding his stern lectures on TSA rules and regulations. Meanwhile, he can pretend he doesn’t know me during my inevitable full-body pat-down and invasive suitcase inspection. I’m just saying, it helps to be on speaking terms when embarking on an international expedition.

We flew into Pula and spent several days exploring the northwestern Istrian peninsula, particularly Rovinj and Motovun. From there, we drove south to Split, a busy port city two-thirds of the way down the Dalmatian coast, ducking into the mountains briefly along the way to see the waterfalls at Plitvice Lakes National Park. Then we took the ferry to the islands of Vis and Korcula, finally ending in Dubrovnik. Here are a few highlights:

Truffle-hunting: Smack dab in the middle of Istria is a hilltop town called Motovun, and that’s where our truffle adventure began. I’m referring to the treasured underground fungi, by the way, not the chocolates (though I would argue they’re equally delicious). Like Italy, this area is known for producing high-quality black truffles in the summer and the even-more-coveted white truffles in the fall. Miro of Miro Tartufi took us, another couple from Philly, and his two truffle-hunting dogs, Bela and Lila, into the woods. In the light drizzle, we watched the dogs sniff out these musky nuggets and start digging. Then Miro presented us with what looked like an ordinary clod of dirt, but was actually culinary gold. We were lucky that the dogs were able to find six truffles—four black and two white—before it started to downpour. Afterwards, a beautiful lunch awaited us with truffle-infused oils, vinegars, and salts courtesy of Miro’s wife, Miryana. There were scrambled eggs with truffles, a delicious salad topped with truffles, even chocolate cake dusted with truffles. I was in heaven, mushroom lover that I am. Let’s just say my husband will be happy if he never eats another truffle again.

Secret coves on Vis Island: My husband and I share a love of the ocean. He loves to fish, I love to swim, especially in a picturesque, tranquil cove we can pretend to have all to ourselves. Vis, the furthest island off the coast of Croatia, is peaceful and rugged and absolutely terrifying to circumnavigate, what with the hairpin turns and steep cliffs along its stunningly dramatic coastline. I didn’t know it at the time, but the apartment we rented for three nights was set in a beautiful, secluded cove. The location was private but also just a short paddle board trip away from Stiniva, one of the most spectacular beaches on Vis (we learned of the easier ocean access only after completing the steep, treacherous descent on foot and rock-scrabbling climb back up). The coastline consists mainly of layered limestone ledges eroded by the surf, and the beaches tend to be either pebbly or piled deep with smooth rocks about the size and color of somewhat-flattened duck eggs. Sea shoes are a must. (There are a few sandy beaches, but they aren’t quite as pretty, in my opinion.) The water was crystal clear and still warm in late September/early October. This being the off season meant no crowds. You could snorkel along the rocky crevices and peacefully swim with the Adriatic marine life. The sound of the ocean at night right outside our door is something we still miss.

A food tour in Split: I’m not much of a museum person, to be honest. I prefer to wander the streets and take in the atmosphere through the sights, smells, sounds, and, of course, flavors of a place. I’ve found that food tours are a great way to get to know a city and its history, which is always reflected in the food. Enter Jolanda Vitaljic, a chef in the bustling port city of Split. She gave us a tour of the green markets, where we sampled fruits, cheese, and delicious Swiss chard pastries called soparnik. She walked us through Diocletian Palace, skirting the rest of the tours and giving us the tastiest historical tidbits, like how they used to store olive oil in the old sarcophaguses (sarcophagi?). We had lunch at a lovely restaurant, sampling fresh breads and Croatian olive oils, octopus salad, marinated fish, and anchovy and tomato pastries. She brought us to her favorite bakery, gelateria, cafe, and even gave us a signed copy of her book, My Dalmatian Cookbook, a charmingly illustrated guide to some of her best family recipes. No matter where you visit, I highly recommend seeking out a guided tour that looks at the culture and history of the place through a lens that’s particularly interesting to you. (If it happens to be Game of Thrones, there’s a tour for that!)

Digestifs: One of my favorite aspects of dining in Croatia, besides the emphasis on fresh, local seafood and wine, is the tradition of serving digestifs after dinner called rakija. Often, they arrive at the table gratis. They were different everywhere we went, depending on the region we were visiting. The rakija we tasted included fiery grappas and sweet brandies flavored with plums or honey. We tried liqueur made from carob, and one made with mistletoe. Sour cherry brandy and walnut liqueur were among my favorites. I was also partial to Teranino, a red wine liqueur on the sweeter side flavored with a mix of warm spices. I brought a bottle back to the States despite my worry that the slender neck would snap in my suitcase from the crushing force of our combined laundry (it didn’t).

Walking the Walls of Dubrovnik: This was spectacular and not to be missed, unless you have issues with mobility or heights (there are 1080 steps throughout). I recommend you go early, as soon as it opens and before the cruise ships arrive, and off-season, if possible. Otherwise, it will be wall-to-wall people and, in that case, I’d rather fling myself off the ramparts into the sea.

You’ll be happy to know, our marriage survived the trip intact and, in fact, it was one of the great adventures of our lives. If you’re planning a trip to Croatia anytime soon and want more information, let me know.

Do you like to bake?

Now that the holidays are upon us, it’s time to pull out your copy of New England Desserts for all the holiday cookie and candy recipes. I know I’ll be making the Penuche and Chocolate Fudge, as well as Cranberry Pine Nut Biscotti, Snickerdoodles, and Rosemary Juniper Shortbread (not to mention the Chocolate Cherry Cookies from Wintersweet). If you want to feel like a wizard this holiday season—and who doesn’t—try the Foolproof Fudge recipe on the old blog. Copies of New England Desserts are still available here. Filled with scrumptious photographs, they make great gifts for your favorite New Englander or seasonal cook.

In other news, my next book, New England Brunch, will be released in the spring and it’s available for preorder now! My favorite recipes include the Maple Walnut Cinnamon Rolls, Broccoli and Brie Quiche, Squash and Sage Scones, and Lobster Benedict. I’m also partial to the simple, seasonal pitcher drinks like Strawberry Rhubarb Sangria, Blueberry Lemonade, Mint Watermelon Gimlets, and Mulled Pumpkin Cider. Finally, there’s an entire Dim Sum chapter with Chinatown favorites like Siu Mai, Pork Belly Bao, and Egg Custard Tarts.

Put your order in now so you don’t forget. Hope to see you in 2025!

Lobsterly,