Adventures in Cheesemongering

Hello Friends,

I hope this newsletter finds you well as spring turns to summer. Or, in the case of New England, as winter turns to summer without any spring to speak of, except for the endless rain. (On the upside, my rain barrels are overflowing.)

The big news for me is that I’ve started training as a cheesemonger at Formaggio Kitchen. Most Boston area food lovers have taken a pilgrimage to the main Cambridge location at one time or another in search of stinky cheese, Maldon salt, and local and imported culinary delights of every sort. The Boston location in the South End is teeny-tiny but similarly jam-packed with delicious things. I fell in love immediately. It has a quasi-European charm and, in spite of the constant threat of parking tickets, I pretty much begged them to hire me.

The cheese counter in the back can be a little intimidating at first. There are so many cheeses to choose from: butterscotchy goudas; rich, oozing triple creams; tangy goat cheeses; and buttermilky blues. Where do you even start? By sampling, that’s how. Try a few things, pick your favorite, then bring it home. Come back and do it again. If you’re in the neighborhood, stop by sometime and we’ll taste some cheese together. My weekly schedule varies, but I’m generally there on Sundays (and if I’m not, you’re in luck because all the other cheesemongers know a lot more than I do!). There are also wine and cheese classes you can take. And if you’re not local, there’s an online store for ordering direct.

Since starting, I’ve been introduced to Comté, the French version of Swiss Gruyère from the other side of the Alps, which has become a new favorite of mine. I’m captivated by Crema di Bufala, a buffalo milk brie from Italy that tastes like a cross between brie and fresh mozzarella. The mountain tommes stand tall and firm while the soft-ripened cheeses seem to want to crawl away on their own. There are truffle cheeses and cheeses with coffee grounds and cheeses speckled with seaweed. There are cheeses wrapped in chestnut leaves and cheeses coated in herbs or wood ash. There are also pâtés and cured meats galore, including several types of prosciutto, Spanish serrano ham, speck, and little saucissons. As an apprentice in the world of fine meats and cheeses, it feels like the more you learn, the less you know, which is just the kind of challenge I like.

Last Sunday, I learned how to take apart all the deli slicers, sharpen the blades, and sanitize them while keeping my favorite fingers intact, which are all of them. The people I work with are great: friendly and generous with their knowledge. I spend my breaks at the bookstore next door or any of the little parks nearby, which sadly don’t allow roller skating or else all my boxes would be checked. I’ve been scolded by Husband multiple times for spending my hard-earned cash on French butter, Dubai chocolates, and wine. After all, college tuition doesn’t pay for itself, but I think we can all agree which one is easier on the stomach.

I’ve also been enjoying my book events at local libraries in support of New England Brunch. There are so many great brunch recipes to share that use early summer produce, like the Sourdough Waffles pictured on the cover, Strawberry Anise Crepes with Whipped Mascarpone, Rhubarb Ginger Parfaits, Spring Pea Salad, Corn Muffins with Maple Cardamom Butter, and Strawberry Rhubarb Sangria.

I had a very nice reception at Gale Free Library in Holden recently as well as Shrewsbury and Weymouth public libraries. On Saturday 6/21, I’ll be signing books at the South Shore Food Bank’s Food Fight 2025 event at Starland in Hanover, where the featured celebrity chef is Stephen Coe (known for besting Bobby Flay on Chopped). If you haven’t yet gotten your copy of New England Brunch, there’s no better time than the present! And if you’ve already purchased it, would you be willing to post a review? Thank you, as always, for your support.

I’ve been writing quite a bit lately, too. After more than 350 recipes spread out over 3 cookbooks, 22 years of parenting, 20 years of freelance writing, 15 years of food styling and photography, 10 years of slightly unhinged blogging, 5 years of teaching, and a half century of being a person, I’m reflecting on what I’ve learned about food, baking, and life. It turns out I have a lot to say about that. I hope I’ll eventually get to share what I’m working on.

In the meantime, here’s a recipe for Strawberry Rhubarb Crumb Bars that I think you’ll like. They’re great for snacking and can be served warm with vanilla ice cream for a lovely June dessert.

Strawberry Rhubarb Crumb Bars

Recently I had some mascarpone left over so I subbed it in for the cream cheese and—no surprises—it was amazing. This makes enough to feed a crowd. For a smaller group, halve the recipe and make it in an 8x8-inch pan.

Dough
2½ cups all-purpose flour, divided
1 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
½ tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. salt
12 Tbsps. unsalted butter, cold, cut into 6 pieces
2 oz. cream cheese
1 large egg
½ tsp. vanilla extract
½ cup chopped walnuts (optional)
¼ tsp. ground cardamom (optional)

Fruit
¾ pound (3 cups) strawberries, hulled, halved, and diced
¾ pound (3 cups) rhubarb, cut into roughly ½-inch thick pieces

½ cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x13-inch pan.

For the dough, add 2 cups of the flour into the bowl of a food processor (or electric mixer) along with the brown sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter and cream cheese. Pulse the motor until the mixture is moist and crumbly. Dump everything out into a medium bowl. Measure 3 cups of the mixture and add back to the food processor (or mixer) along with the remaining ½ cup of flour, egg, and vanilla. Blend just until it starts to come together into a clumpy dough. Press the clumps evenly into the pan. Bake for 10 minutes until puffy.

Meanwhile, combine the strawberries, rhubarb, brown sugar, and lemon juice in a large bowl. Spread the fruit in an even layer over the surface of the partially baked crust.

To the bowl of reserved streusel topping, stir in the walnuts and cardamom, if desired. Sprinkle the topping over the surface of the fruit. Bake again for 40 to 50 minutes until the topping is light golden brown. Let cool a bit before slicing. Store leftovers in the refrigerator for a day or two.

Lobsterly,